Monday, February 2, 2009

The last week of January - livin it up in P.P

I think it’s curious that now I’m living in a foreign country I am finally interested in the news and what’s happening around the rest of the world. But then again it could just be because I now have the luxury of Cable and it’s being thrown at me from multiple different channels. Watching bad movies on Cable is what encompasses my Tuesday night this week. I’m still a bit fragile from Sunday night/Monday mornings events, and am not brave enough to venture outside the house. I lay on the couch in my front room, reading and keeping half an eye on the Tv while the sounds of Phnom Penh let themselves in through the windows I’ve left open for the breeze. The ”Ta Ban Club” is directly across the road from me, (three strides and I’m there). Big neon signs tell you in English that it’s a “massage and restaurant” establishment. Now it could just be the uncultured western part of me but I’d rather be offered a “pedicure or facial with my massage” rather than “Asian noodles or rice”. The entrance attracts a crowd of Khmer men most nights playing some game of cards they’ve laid out on a sack on the ground. Tonight they’re completely raucous and you don’t need to understand the language to know someone is either losing very badly or winning extremely well by the hoots, shouting and laughing that’s going on. I go to bed early, beat, and dream I’m back in Australia, at work. It goes something like this: . . . we’re all told an emergency meeting has been called and everyone has to get to the main hall quickly. Everyone is rushing because no one wants to be the last there and be singled out by the speaker. I sit down and am busy saying hallo to lots of different people when the speaker begins. I’m surprised it’s not the CEO but is instead someone from Comms. She’s very flamboyant and “made up” and I forget to listen to what she’s saying for a while as I focus on what she’s wearing and the way she’s done her hair. Once I tune in I realize she’s saying things along the lines of how she's sick of the situation at Suncorp, how she’s sick of doing the work of three people etc, etc. There’s murmuring all around me and I turn to someone next to me and say, “I don’t think this meeting has been organized by the Execs” everyone agrees and we soon realize it’s a staff revolt organized by the Comms department. We’re all amazed and kind of in awe at the braveness of it all. . . Now, some of you have been privy to the retelling of my dreams before and thought you would find this one close to home although not as interesting as some of my others have been. :o) Note to Nat: don’t worry this dream has no direct link to anyone I know personally who may or may not work in Comms herself. Srey greets me in the morning with a Khmer phrase that I actually recognize and I repeat it back to her hoping it’s the equivalent of the French ”cava?”, “cava!” I think she’s happy that I am better anyway. The streets are still quiet because of Chinese New Year and Yuan and I fly to work. I spend the day preparing questions for external interviews. Four of the staff head off at 1pm to Kratie where they will be for 3 days doing interviews and attending an annual meeting. The ED (Executive Director) promised me before he left that they would take me next time so I could get to see the country side, I can’t wait to get out and about. I get changed as soon as I get home and walk to the gym, mainly to see how long it takes. Going for a walk here is really not the same as at home. For one thing, if there are footpaths, they are normally covered in cars, motorbikes, food stalls, dogs etc so you’re forced to walk on the road anyway. And secondly when crossing a road you have to actually look both ways two or three times, because it's more than likely a motorbike will shoot past you traveling on the wrong side of the road which is actually the right side of the road if you are at home. Yes, very confusing! Once again the gym is wonderfully cool for my workout and a Motodop is waiting right outside to take me home. I don’t feel save enough to walk home in the dark although it’s only about 6.30pm. Although in hindsight, this could have been the safer option as riding on the back of a Motodop in the dark is a whole other scary experience. My blind little “woofer”, as always, welcomes me home (that’s how I’ve decided to look at his insistent yapping) and I cook and eat my first real meal since Sunday. The real treat is the Chai tea I make later on with Soy milk that doesn’t taste like it’s had a cup of sugar added. Hhhmmm bliss. Traffic is back to chaos again today as Yuan bravely takes them on!!! It’s kind of good that we can’t communicate as I get to make up this whole personality for him that he probably doesn’t possess or even want. I’m gonna stick with the white knight, caped crusader on rusty red stead image I have for him though, cause I think it kinda works, especially with that big cheesy grin and sly little smirks as we leave yet another 4x4 in our wake!!! I’m honored on Thursday as the Media & Comms Manager asks me to edit the latest issue of MEDiNEWS for him and he’s added my name to the list of editors before it goes to print. This is a monthly publication that goes to all medical NGO’s across Cambodia. I go out to lunch with Kalyan our Health Information Officer. I find out she has a 6 year old son who prefers to learn English than Khmer and a husband who is a dentist. I also get to try a Khmer dish that I would have had no idea how to order on my own and it’s delicious. Kalyan offers to take me shopping and says she loves to go “window” shopping at the Russian market. I walk the 20mins to the gym again after work and this time Toby (Vida volunteer) is there and offers me a lift home. He’s got a big,"dirt-bike" type bike and I hold on for dear life as it’s not quite as sedate as riding on the back with Yaun. Toby takes me to the French bakery for a baguette enroute cause that’s the only thing I can think of that I want to eat, brown rice just isn’t going “to cut it” tonight. I try to pay Srey in the morning as it’s the end of the month but she refuses to take it. She shows me on the calendar that she’s only worked two weeks, a fact that I was happy to ignore but she’s not having any of it. I finally manage to convince her to take half of it anyway by saying “soam” in Khmer (please). I knew learning the language would come in handy! It’s Friday but the day is sooo quiet and slow and takes for ever to pass. I am invited out for drinks but I’m still not sure my stomach is up for any alcohol and spend the night vegged out on the couch instead. Saturday morning I walk to meet Lydia at the Java Café. I’ve noticed when Westerners get together there seems to be this rapid deluge of conversation, as everyone breaks down the constraints and rejoices in the luxury of being able to speak as fast, and with as much colloquialisms as they can muster after speaking English slowly and correctly all week. Mara joins us after a bit and we all head off with Chanthy to look at pushbikes. There’s no deliberation as I fall instantly in love with a great big white beauty. He’s preloved and costs me $38, the iridescent paint job is worth that alone I think to myself. But the extras don’t end there, they throw in a basket for the front, a bell, front light and a rear carrier. I’m certainly traveling in style now! We can only imagine what people are thinking as Chanty drives me, Mara and two bikes through Phnom Penh in his Tuk-Tuk. They don’t think we’re too lazy to ride and carry our bikes around with us “just for emergencies”, surely not. I really enjoy the rest of my afternoon as I walk ten minutes to Orussey my nearest market and spend the next few hours phaffing about. This is more of a “local market”and not so much for tourists which definitely has it’s own appeal. I stumble upon hairdresser and beautician suppliers and manage, by rubbing my toe, to demonstrate my need of some nail polish remover. I’m pointed to where 5 people are sitting surrounding one lady who is upending a 40ltr drum to facilitate the filling of 500ml water bottles at her feet. I’m provided one of these in exchange for $1. Wow, I’m gonna have to stay here for 5 years to use up that amount of remover. The market itself is relaxing as there’s no pressure to buy and you don’t get the feeling they trying to rip you off with Westerner prices. The english of the stall owners is limited but somehow we manage. I buy material to have a skirt made for $3, a kilo of tomatoes for 75c and a reading lamp and torch (just incase or for WHEN the power goes out again). I join those crazy Kiwi lads from “Flight of the Conchords” in America on Saturday night and fear this buying a television is having an adverse affect on my social life and productivity. I can’t believe I leave the house at 9am on Sunday and don’t return until well late, the day just flew as I transported myself around town on my new “white charger”. Things were a bit wobbly to start with as I got used to the size and weight and I found myself doing things that don’t work unless you’re clipped into the peddles but other than that I loved being back on a bike. There’s nothing like the exhilaration of self propelled freedom! Yoga at 9.30am was great although I’ll have to get used to all the “hhhuuuuummgghhing”and other chanting. It was held on the roof of a building with temporary roof, cane blinds for walls and lots of drapped material for decoration. Some of the area was exposed to the view and created a beautiful gentle breeze. The setting made for a lovely relaxing tranquil atmosphere. My body felt great as I stretched out some knots and completely relaxed. Afterwards we have a chat over the home made Chai tea the organisers supply, I’ll surely become their friends for life as it's beautiful. They explain that this afternoon they will have the children from the Stung Meanchey Municipal Waste Dump come in for play time and yoga lessons. Mara took the same kids to the Waterpark yesterday. It’s really heartening to hear that these poor kids who live near the dump, and work as “rubbish pickers”, get some “time-out” to just be kids for a while. I meet Cara at the Russian market and we go visit her tailor to arrange to have some things made. My skirt is going to cost $5 and be ready next Sunday! We bump into Terri and Toby at the Jenjji café which is a favourite amongst volunteers. Afterwards myself and Cara can't resist and head back to the market for another dose of shopping. Me, my bike and my load cause a bit of a stir as I park at my local supermarket later on. You pay 500riel, (about10cents) for a seemingly efficient security system out the front. The security system asks me what I’ve got on the back of my bike. I’d bought some black cane sticks at a shop near the market to make wall hangings with and considered myself to be looking like a true local with this long, ungainly load on my bike. They didn’t really understand my explanation but when I came out of the supermarket a bit later they were still hanging around my bike. Unfortunately I didn’t have a small enough note to pay for the curious security but they smilingly waved me away. I'll give them double next time. Well, it’s the start of a new month and already I’ve been here for three weeks! I think this is one of those periods in life when you wish time would slow it’s incessantly rapid pace.
Here's few photos from the bike buying expedition:

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